1 Failla 2006
Phoenix Ranch Syrah
(Napa Valley); $42.
An awesome Syrah that proves that, while size isn’t everything, it does matter. A major league wine, brilliantly packed with currant, black cherry, licorice and pepper flavors whose power is hard to exaggerate. For all that, the wine never loses its balance and sense of proportion. So good now, you won’t be able to keep your hands off it, but it should hold for six years.

2 San Vicente 2005
(Rioja); $65.
Talk about a wine that makes you take notice. This is simply great modern Rioja. The nose is creamy but honest, with black fruit, mocha and finely tanned leather. The palate gives the whole range of berry and tree fruits, with expansive tannins and just enough core acidity to make it stunning. Ultra stylish and delicious; another huge success for the Eguren family that owns San Vicente and other Rioja properties. Imported by Fine Estates From Spain.

3 Château Lynch-Bages 2005
(Pauillac); $115.
Classic Lynch-Bages with just a bit of extra power and richness. While the tannins are structured, it is the velvety fruit that rolls around the mouth that is the most dominant character. It is coming together into a wine that will be big and dense, but never over the top. Imported by Château Lynch-Bages.

4 Alma Rosa 2006
Chardonnay
(Santa Barbara County); $20.
Starts with an opulent, inviting aroma of smoky honey, vanilla, tangerines, Meyer lemons, yellow apricots, green apples and minerals. In the mouth, the flavors are very similar—an explosion of fruits, spices and toast. Just a tremendous wine, but for all the volume and complexity, it’s completely balanced.

5 Avignonesi 2004
Desiderio
(Cortona); $50.
Desiderio is an outstandingly delicious Merlot from Cortona with a soft, yielding personality and loads of sweet cherryberry nuances. The wine boasts excellent complexity thanks to the playful notes of peppermint, herbs, root beer and cola that give it undying persistency and intensity. Imported by Dalla Terra.

6 Poet’s Leap 2006
Riesling
(Columbia Valley); $20.
Poet’s Leap is the Long Shadows collaboration with Armin Diel of Germany’s Schlossgut Diel. Ripe pear, melon and white peach mingle with a streak of honey. Old Yakima Valley vines contribute concentration, adding herb and mineral to the fruit. The residual sugar is about 1.4%, keeping the alcohol just under 13%, with acids that keep flavors buoyant and precise.

7 Maurodos 2004
San Roman
(Columbia Valley); $50.
About as good as it gets in terms of a powerful, fully oaked modern wine that still guards its core identity while offering plenty of straightforward drinking pleasure. San Roman in 2004 is a high-speed train with agile fruit and bracing acidity more dominating than, say, tannic might or alcoholic heat. Among the brave new world of modern wines from Toro this is one of the very best. 6,500 cases produced. Imported by Grapes of Spain.

8 Niepoort 2005
Redoma
(Douro); $39.
While it’s certainly dense, black and brooding, this wine’s dominant tannins also give a base for exciting, luscious black fruit flavors. Herbal, pepper, jelly and juicy fruit flavors, speak of the strength of the Douro. Imported by European Cellars.

9 Goldschmidt 2005
Vyborny Vineyard
Single Vineyard Selection
Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley); $65.
Cabernet collectors who look beyond Napa Valley should be aware of this wine. It’s an important addition to the Alexander Valley pantheon, a densely layered young wine. Shows brilliant red stone fruit, cassis, cola, date nut bread, mocha and tangerine zest flavors gorgeously lavished with the vanilla and smoky caramel of oak. Just delicious now, and should slowly spread its wings for many years.

10 Château Coutet 2005
Barsac
(Bordeaux); $40.
Surprisingly dry, this has richness rather than sweetness, and intense, powerful botrytis. The honey is intensely perfumed, along with baked apples and spice. Certainly a long-aging wine.