Cognac Tesseron Perfection Lot Nº. 53 XO
Grande Champagne Cognac
(France)
40% abv, $150.
CLASSIC / Highest Recommendation
The nosing passes find an oaky/nut paste aroma with fruity notes of berries, dried fruit, plums, pears and soft cheese. The palate entry is composed, succulent and honeyed; by midpalate the flavors deepen to include caramel, rancio and orange rind. Finishes beautifully with depth, finesse and maturity.

Paulet
Very Rare Fine
Champagne Cognac
(France)
43% abv, $1500.
CLASSIC / Highest Recommendation
The nose includes aromas of dates, marzipan with underpinning aromas of old oak, nutmeg and hard cheese. The palate entry is balanced, semisweet and slightly toasty; the midpalate stage features succulent tastes of Brazil nut, mincemeat, figs, bacon fat and prunes. Finishes with finesse and heartiness. A mature brandy at its wonderful peak.

Pionneau
1969
Cognac Classic Strength
(France; Five Star Importers, Plainview, NY)
56.4% abv, $1200.
CLASSIC / Highest Recommendation
Honeyed, caramel-like, oily bouquet. At palate entry, tastes of dates, roasted almond, walnut paste and baked pear delight; the midpalate highlights the cheese-like and bacony rancio. The aftertaste blankets the tongue in sumptuous coats of oil, rancio and maple sugar.

Cognac Leyrat XO Elite
Cognac
Domaine de Chez Maillard
(France)
41% abv, $170.
SUPERB / Highly Recommended
An elegant bouquet featuring scents of new leather, dried fruit, pine needle, oak, nuts, and lanolin. The palate entry is enticingly sweet; the midpalate is honeyed, creamy and smooth. Concludes gracefully with reined-in notes of sautéed butter, roasted walnuts, nougat, honey and dark caramel.

Chateau du Busca
1985
Tenarèze Armagnac
(France)
43% abv, $129.
CLASSIC / Highest Recommendation
The complex bouquet consists of candied, smoky, toasty and vanilla-laden scents that accent the wood/oak core aroma. The spectacular palate entry is sophisticated, semisweet, cola- and toffee-like; the midpalate offers integrated tastes of nougat, roasted chestnuts, dark chocolate, orange rind and treacle. Finishes with a deft touch of budding rancio. An instant classic.

Delord
25-Year-Old
Bas Armagnac
(France)
40% abv, $95.
CLASSIC / Highest Recommendation
The nose is biscuity, caramel-like, cream Sherry-like with a touch of cheese-like rancio. The palate entry tastes like bittersweet dark chocolate, cocoa butter, chocolate-covered raisins and dark honey; the midpalate is fruity and less bittersweet than the entry, making for a succulent aftertaste. A genuine classic. Best Buy.

Castarède
1974
Gers Armagnac
(France)
60% abv, $84.
SUPERB / Highly Recommended
The bouquet offers mature yet still vivid scents of oak, dried fruit, and cream. The palate entry is round, succulent, rich, and even tobacco-like; at midpalate almond paste, caramel and honey are added to the flavor. The finish is elegant, pleasingly rich and sweet, and intensely nutty.

Château du Breuil
15-Year-Old Calvados
(France)
41% abv, $50./Liter
CLASSIC / Highest Recommendation
A wonderful bouquet that includes toasty scents of baked apple and baked pear and subtle aromas of brown sugar and marshmallow. There are delicious tastes of ripe apple and pear at palate entry; at midpalate the taste profile offers candied apple, cotton candy and distant vanilla flavors. The aftertaste is toastier than the midpalate, but it works. Best Buy.

Père Magloire XO
Calvados
(France)
40% abv, $70.
SUPERB / Highly Recommended
Sports a mature aroma of dried apple crisps, cinnamon, marshmallow, parchment and old honey. Tastes of nougat, nutmeg, pastry, apple butter and cinnamon. Concludes as gracefully as it begins. One of the best Calvados one can enjoy. Sublime and sensual.

Maison Védrenne Hospices de Beaune
1993
Eau de Vie de Marc
(France)
Marc 45% abv, $100.
SUPERB / Highly Recommended
The pungent aroma is intensely grapy and viny, astringent and pulpy. The palate entry is stonily dry, cleansing, and acidic; at midpalate the acidic/minerally astringency gives way momentarily to a flash of ripe grapiness/pulpiness. Finishes intensely grapy and musty, verging suddenly on being ripe and even raisiny.