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Fifty Best Spirits of 2006 |
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Imperia Unflavored Vodka (Russia) 40% abv, $35.  
SUPERB / Highly Recommended The first sniffings find dry cereal-like aromas; the later sniffings detect aromas reminiscent of old-fashioned egg cream soda. The palate entry shows bittersweet notes of vanilla extract, unsalted butter and grain mash; at midpalate the astringency of the graininess is pleasingly refreshing. The finish is more semisweet than bittersweet.
Millennium Unflavored Vodka (Poland) 40% abv, $20.   SUPERB / Highly Recommended Sports a clean, off-dry, nicely grainy opening scent; following aeration, the bouquet turns pleasantly expressive as the sweet spiciness of the grain kicks in. The palate entry is very sweet and medium-bodied; the midpalate flavor is intensely grainy sweet. The aftertaste is slightly honeyed and Graham cracker-like. Use as a mixing, not a sipping, vodka.
Reyka Unflavored Vodka (Iceland) 40% abv, $23.   SUPERB / Highly Recommended A sooty initial aroma; following aeration, enticing, dry notes of palm oil, unsalted butter, grain mash and slate emerge. The palate entry is bone-dry as soot and slate tastes meld, then turn delightfully oily and textured.
Svensk Lake Vattern Unflavored Vodka (Sweden) 40% abv, $23.   SUPERB / Highly Recommended The smoky, bean-like aroma is vivid, beautifully bitter and bark-like. The palate entry is root- and bark-like, herbal, and moderately oily; at midpalate the flavor profile turns towards refreshing bitterness and a minerally quality. Ends dry yet oily and smooth. A great value.
Modern Spirits Grapefruit Honey Flavored Vodka (USA) 35% abv, $24/375 ml; $40/750 ml   CLASSIC / Highest Recommendation The bouquet is deftly crafted and true to its sources, beginning tart and juicy and then turning milder and less acidic. The palate entry features the ripeness of the grapefruit and then evolves at midpalate into a delicately sweet/sour taste in which both flavor infusions complement each other. Finishes with more of the grapefruit influence showing.
Charbay Green Tea Flavored Vodka (USA) 35% abv, $35.   SUPERB / Highly Recommended The overall bouquet impression includes seductive fragrances of ripe green melon, sage and lightly honeyed green tea with later whiffs of jasmine and honeysuckle. The palate entry is gently tea-like and a touch honeyed; the midpalate profile borders on being spicy with a delicate sweetness and herbaceousness. Long and luxurious finish.
Vincent Van Gogh Double Espresso Double Caffeine Coffee Flavored Vodka (Holland) 35% abv, $30.   SUPERB / Highly Recommended The supple bouquet has a strong coffee bean-like quality with additional scents of cocoa, road tar, roasted chestnut and wood smoke. The palate entry and midpalate are nicely mellow with plenty of rich espresso character. Finishes smoked and tar-like, with the coffee taking a back seat.
No. 209 Gin (USA) 46% abv, $40.   SUPERB / Highly Recommended The nosing passes find generous notes of citrus zest, juniper berry, orris root, licorice, coriander and angelica. The palate entry is bittersweet, intensely grainy and speckled with licorice and orris root; at midpalate the flavor turns delightfully herbal. Finish is decidedly herbal/leafy/seed-like and, finally, bittersweet. An adult gin with an adventurous attitude.
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