welcome to the fifty best wines of 2006

                 Presents

Page 4

31   Château Les Ormes de Pez 2003
(Saint-Estèphe);  $35. 
One of the nine crus bourgeois exceptionnel, this estate is under the ownership of the Cazes family of Château Lynch-Bages. With the same winemaking team, it's no wonder that Ormes de Pez is up with classed growths in quality. The character of 2003 gives this wine black tarry flavors, but it hasn't spoiled the wine's dry tannins, structure or its long-term potential. Imported by Diageo Chateau & Estates.

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32   Morgan 2004
Rosella's Vineyard
Chardonnay  (Santa Lucia Highlands);  $35. 
I liked Morgan's Double L Chard for its Chablis-like character. This wine is more so. It's drier, more acidic and more elegant, but there's nothing lean about the power of its core of tropical fruit, which detonates on the palate and doesn't stop. There's fascination with every sip, as the wine slowly changes in the glass. This is a great wine and showcases the infinite possibilities of this appellation.

33   Cayuse 2003
Cailloux Vineyard
Syrah  (Walla Walla);  $55. 
Incredible fruit intensity. Cranberry, pomegranate and cherry meet rock, gravel and pepper. Lovely focus and purity; it's concentrated and tight, with a minerality that is compelling and distinctive. The best yet from Cailloux. Syrah is co-fermented with 4 or 5% Viognier. It's a world-class effort, still quite young and tight, but built for beautiful aging.

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34   Domaine Lafond 2003
Roc-Epine
La Ferme Romaine  (Lirac);  $28. 
This domaine's luxury cuvée shines in 2003, offering a lovely bouquet that balances spice, leather and dried fruits. Shows the plus side of the 2003 vintage in its great concentration, yet it doesn't seem overdone at all. Plum, black cherry and spice: this wine has it all. Drink now - 2015. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.

35   Kendall-Jackson 2004
Seco Highlands Estate
Pinot Noir  (Arroyo Seco, CA);  $35. 
Opens with a pure, clean, high-toned aroma, powerful yet delicate, of cherries, cola, coffee, cinnamon and smoky oak. In the mouth, the wine has fantastic density and concentration, rich in fruits and spices, but with a brilliant Pinotesque silkiness. Simply a marvelous wine.

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36   Dr. H. Thanisch
(Erben Müller-Burggraef) 2005
Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr
Riesling Spätlese  (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer);  $26. 
Plump and succulent, this is a deceptively easy wine. Ripe apple, pear and melon flavors make it seem simple, but underneath the flesh is a spine of bright acids and slatey minerality. Zesty lime and ripe orange notes give length to the crisp, lingering finish. Both this wine and the auslese are great.

37   Domaines Schlumberger 2002
Kitterlé Grand Cru
Pinot Gris  (Alsace);  $44. 
A beautiful wine, balancing acidity, spice and fresh peach flavors with structure and ageability. This brings out all the characters of great Pinot Gris, elegance and power combining in harmony.
Imported by Maisons Marques & Domaines USA.

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38   Domaine Leflaive 2003
Clavoillon Premier Cru
(Puligny-Montrachet); $113. 
It's not so much the fruit but the richness and concentration that mark this wine. Yet it's not superripe because of the hot 2003 vintage. This wine, with its origins in biodynamically grown grapes, preserves a great purity of fruit as it layers intense almond and citrus flavors over vanilla and yellow fruit tastes. It should age well.

39   Colgin 2003
IX Estate
Red Wine  (Napa Valley);  $175. 
From the winery's estate vineyard, high up on Pritchard Hill above the Silverado Trail, comes this spectacular Cab-based masterpiece. The color is purple-black, and massively saturated. Very intricate, complex, totally enjoyable, almost perfect. Like a great Pauillac, this monumental wine announces cassis, blackberry, cigar box, pencil lead, spice and cedar flavors that go on and on. Very tannic, but so beautiful, and amazingly rich. Decant if you're drinking now, or open anytime through 2020.

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40   Henri Bourgeois 2005
Le MD de Bourgeois
(Sancerre);  $24. 
Gorgeous, concentrated, ripe fruit show both the quality of this wine and the extra warmth of 2005. The MD is the top cuvée from the Bourgeois vineyard. It's dense and ripe, with almost exotic fruit flavors, and finishes generous and fruity.
Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd.

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