welcome to the fifty best wines of 2003

                       Presents

Page 4

31   Sandeman NV Royal Corregidor
Rich Old Oloroso Sherry
(Jerez);  $25. 
Rich and unctuous; a big, muscular, semisweet beauty with a meaty frame and gorgeous maple and toffee aromas. Broad-shouldered across the palate, with apricot and quince flavors accented by cinnamon and nutmeg. In terms of mouthfeel, it's like a fine liqueur, and on the finish everything you've previously smelled and/or tasted comes back into perfect focus.

32   Folie à Deux 1999
Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley);  $40. 
Expensive, but the equal of the cults. One whiff and you're in heaven, with its gorgeous aromas of cassis and blackcurrants, fine smoky oak and vanilla, and chocolaty mint. The flavors don't disappoint. Hard to describe the density and concentration of fruits and herbs. This is great Cabernet, superb now but an obvious cellar candidate.

33   Castello Banfi 1999
Summus
(Sant' Antimo);  $63. 
Luscious and bold, with a round, masculine bouquet of blackberry, bitter chocolate and a whiff of coconut. The palate sports perfect harmony; it's full of cola, cherry, plum and espresso. The finish is tight and right on the money. Lovely stuff from a fine vintage; a wine made in the rich, sweet, modern style. The blend is Sangiovese, Cabernet and Syrah

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34   Perrin 2000
L'Andéol
(Rasteau);  $16. 
Muscled up and powerful, with graham cracker aromas and deep, saturated black fruit. For a Southern Rhône red, this has all you could ask for. The palate is sweet, ripe and meaty, with oozing black plum and berries framed perfectly by simple yet tasty oak. The finish is snappy and lively, yet tannic and rich. The full package, with size and stature.

35   Felton Road 2002
Dry Riesling
(Central Otago);  $23. 
This powerful expression of Riesling blends floral aromas with scents of lime, pineapple and crushed stone, then finishes with great length and intensity. The penetrating citrus and mineral notes seem to echo on the palate, filling the mouth with their characterful flavors.

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36   Felipe Rutini 2000
Malbec
(Tupungato);  $18. 
A delicious, deeply fruited wine that's packed with meaty aromas, a hint of iodine and some sweet perfume. The palate is defined not by individual fruit flavors but a wholeness and lushness that you can't ignore. Overall it's perfectly balanced and rewarding to drink; a stellar Malbec at an affordable price.

37   Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2001
Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Eiswein
(Mosel-Saar-Ruwer);  $100. 
Acidity and sweetness dominate this wine. Its freshness contrasts nicely with its intense sucrosity. It should age indefinitely.

38   Tablas Creek 2001
Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc
(Paso Robles);  $35. 
An enormously complex wine, a real step forward in a California dry white wine. These Rhône grapes blend tropical fruit and peach flavors with tangy minerals and dried herbs. Despite the big flavors, the wine has lively acidity, and is a guaranteed cellar candidate for a decade. A blend of Roussanne, Viognier, Grenache and Marsanne.

39   Château Branaire-Ducru 2000
Saint-Julien;  $40. 
Here is a huge, ripe and luxurious wine, with great power. The texture is solid, filled with firm tannins, the flavors are black and ripe. Along with the power, though, is much of the elegance and poise that characterizes great Saint-Julien.

40   Morgan 2000
Tierra Mar Syrah
(Santa Lucia Highlands);  $35. 
This Syrah goes beyond mere berry-cherry flavors to achieve real richness, depth and complexity. It also demonstrates the possibilities of this appellation for Syrah. Enormous in the mouth, with endlessly changing fruit, mocha, grilled meat, dried herb and pepper flavors that are wrapped in fine, soft tannins. Compelling now, but with the stuffing and balance to last through the decade.

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