welcome to the fifty best wines of 2003

                 Presents

Page 5

41   Château Lafite Rothschild 2000
Pauillac;  $400. 
Perhaps of all the first growths in the totally un-classic 2000, this retains most of the classic Bordeaux. It is certainly almost black in color, while the new wood flavors are very present. But it shows an impressive restraint, leaving the power of the wine to be revealed over the years rather than immediately. This could well be the longest-lived of the Pauillac first growths.

42   Tenuta dell'Ornellaia 2000
Ornellaia
(Bolgheri);  $145. 
Deep and delicious, with an earth-driven nose that conveys quality. Chunky plum pervades the chewy, dark palate, which offers a gorgeous mouthfeel and admirable depth. Only on the finish do you get a slight hint of oak. Overall it's entirely solid and very likable, but as good as it is, it's not quite on the level of the '98 or '99, which were amazing.

43   Rosenblum 2001
Richard Sauret Vineyard Zinfandel
(Paso Robles);  $19. 
Smooth and lush, this pretty wine is filled with bright coffee, chocolate, plum, black cherry, toast and spice flavors. Elegant, with firm, smooth tannins. Really nice.

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44   Bergström 2001
Arcus Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley);  $50. 
From a renowned vineyard, an amazingly rich and complete wine that satisfies on every level. Has the forward flavors of raspberries and cherries that satisfy the palate, yet also possesses layers of subtle complexity in the mingling of acids, tannins and smoky oak. As delicious as it is in youth, it's an ager through the decade.

45   Moët & Chandon 1996
Millésime Rosé
(Champagne);  $55. 
Rubber and earth in the nose, with a smoky Pinot Noir quality that can't be missed. Very tight and masculine, with grapefruit, melon and pepper. Lots of licorice, pepper and snappy fruit make for a tasty, complex whole. Full-bodied and lovely, and bold despite just-right acidity.

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46   Grosset 2002
Polish Hill Riesling
(Clare Valley);  $30. 
Whether you ask me, God, or the lamp post, anyone who's ever had Australian Riesling will count this among the country's best versions of the variety. On the nose, it yields a little sweetness, plus some grapefruit and passion fruit; after a few minutes in the glass, the passion fruit aromas hold on and are joined by kiwi and other fresh tropical fruit. It's a very dry Riesling, with strong lime and a fresh herbal (perhaps cilantro?) flavors, which makes the mineral foundation seem that much drier and racier. Finishes medium-long with grapefruit and putty flavors. An excellent food wine-or an excellent last meal in itself.

47   Monticello/Corley Family 1999
Merlot
(Napa Valley);  $30. 
Rich and sumptuous, this is a magnificently decadent Merlot that oozes ripe grapes and elaborate oak. The flavors veer toward blackberries and cassis, with a delicious taste of French olives. The fruit easily handles the oaky overlay.

48   Clos du Bois 1999
Flintwood Chardonnay
(Dry Creek Valley);  $22. 
Big, bold and buttery, a full-bodied Chard that takes over the mouth with great assertiveness. There's a ton of oak and lees, and the wine underwent total malolactic fermentation. The underlying flavors are citrusy, especially limes. This is a very fine Chardonnay, built for big, rich white meat entrées.

49   Stags' Leap Winery 2001
Chardonnay
(Napa Valley);  $22. 
Lush and complex. Fruity flavors range from fresh green apples to spicy ripe pears. The oak is fine and smoky, while barrel fermentation and lees aging help craft a creamy texture. The finish is long and rich.

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50   Gloria Ferrer 1995
Royal Cuvée Brut
(Carneros);  $22. 
Held back for eight years, this wine tastes like it was bottled yesterday. It's fresh and doughy, with lime and vanilla flavors; the bubbles are still fierce, as are the acids. It's a clean, lean machine of a sparkler, elegant now, but should age flawlessly for years to come.

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