41 Sineann 2006
Resonance Reserve
Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); $72.
This is Sineann’s first reserve, a limited release from some old vine blocks from one of Oregon’s greatest Pinot vineyards, now fully biodynamic. As good as the “regular” Resonance is, this ramps it up another notch or two. The fruit ranges from cherry to prune; the acids are perfect, the barrel notes so well-concealed that you cannot separate them out. Streaks of cherry, fig, coffee, smoke, chocolate, Bourbon, caramel—where do you stop? It just goes and goes. Phenomenal winemaking.

42 Testarossa 2006
Cuvée Niclaire
Pinot Noir (California); $75.
Of all Testarossa’s 2006 Pinots, this is the most complex, and also the most ageworthy. Offers a flood of cherry, red currant, Dr. Pepper, raspberry, licorice, vanilla cookie and oaky spice flavors that are fantastically intense and interesting. This bottling is one of Testarossa’s highest-alcohol Pinots. Great now and for a good six more years.

43 Vall Llach 2005
Priorat; $85.
For the second vintage in a row, Vall Llach’s signature red blend is out on its own. The bouquet is round and deep, with alluring cola, mint and blackberry aromas. The palate is alive but still quite dark, with huge black plum and blackberry flavors. Super long on the finish, with a subtle streak of vanilla and coconut. Delicious but also deft. 450 cases produced. Imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners.

44 Saxum 2005
James Berry Vineyard
(Paso Robles); $95.
Solidly in the Saxum style, which is to say a high alcohol (15.5%), massively flavored wine of enormous concentration and power. The blackberry, cherry, cassis and chocolate flavors have all kind of overtones, ranging from licorice and vanilla to gingerbread and candied violets. Saxum has become a cult favorite, one of the highest-priced brands from Paso Robles, and wines like this are the reason why. Drink now and through 2008. Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache.

45 Château Cos d’Estournel 2005
Saint-Estèphe; $250.
Saint-Estèphe has a reputation for tannins, and this 2005 Cos lives up to that. But it does much more, because the tannins add richness along with intensely ripe black fruits, dark plums and figs. The dense tannins are finely balanced with fresh acidity and a long-lasting aftertaste. Impressive.

46 Von Strasser 2005
Sori Bricco Vineyard
Red Wine (Diamond Mountain); $70.
From one of the oldest vineyards on Diamond Mountain, this Bordeaux blend is impressively powerful and balanced. Based on Cabernet, with small quantities of Merlot, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot, it has oak-influenced black and red currant, cassis, cherry, spicy plum pudding and sweet, smoky vanilla flavors, with a cedar, pencil-lead note reminiscent of a fine Pauillac. Lush now, it should develop well through 2015.

47 Jean-Baptiste Adam 2005
Sélection de Grains Nobles
Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $90./500 ml.
With its distinctive bouquet of rose petals and lychee fruit, this dessert wine’s Gewürztraminer character shines clearly through a modest veil of botrytis. It’s sweet and viscous without being overly heavy, with a long, spice-driven finish. Tremendous stuff, with a wonderful sense of harmony and balance. Imported by Billington Imports.

48 Tenuta Sette Ponti 2005
Oreno
(Toscana); $93.
A blockbuster wine with finely tuned renderings of coffee, tobacco, spice and leather, Oreno requires a rare steak cooked on a mesquite grill or something similarly big and bold. In the mouth, this Sangiovese-Merlot- Cabernet blend delivers loads of spice that leaves a lasting impression thanks its firm tannins. Drink after 2010. Imported by Kobrand.

49 Breggo 2006
Savoy Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley); $55.
If you know Goldeneye’s new Gowen Creek bottling, this is a near identical Pinot, and little wonder, for the vineyards are right next to each other. This wine dazzles with exotic, feral notes of wild blackberries and blueberries, and forest scents of pine needle, roasted mushroom, grilled meat, chocolate, anise, cinnamon, nutmeg and coriander. New oak adds even richer nuances of smoky caramel and vanilla to this compelling wine.

50 Ojai 2005
Fe Ciega Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $56.
This wine is as fine as anything from Santa Rita Hills. Although it’s young and tight now, its future is assured by the brilliant combination of audacious fruit and classic structure. The blackberry, currant, cherry, anise and clove flavors are wrapped into rich, silky tannins and brightened with crisp acidity. Best now, with decanting, and for the next 6–8 years.